Laos - The Good, the Bad & the Ugly

Tha Khaek: Home of The Loop and Limestone Wonders Welcome to Tha Khaek (sometimes spelled Thakhek because Lao transliteration is an extreme sport), the sleepy Mekong River town that accidentally became famous when someone realized its surrounding countryside was perfect for riding motorbikes in circles. Located in central Laos' Khammouane Province, this former French colonial outpost serves as the gateway to the legendary "Tha Khaek Loop", a motorbike adventure that has sent countless travelers home with both incredible photos and fascinating scab collections. Where in the World? Tha Khaek sits on the Mekong River in central Laos, directly across from Nakhon Phanom, Thailand. The town itself is pleasant but unremarkable. It's basically a grid of fading colonial buildings and noodle shops, but the surrounding landscape is where the magic happens. We're talking karst mountains that look like they were designed by a geology student on psychedelics, caves big enough...

Phonsavan: Where Aliens, Jars, and Cows Collide If you’ve ever wanted to visit a place that feels like a cross between Indiana Jones and a National Geographic special directed by aliens on a budget, welcome to Phonsavan, Laos! It's a quirky little town that punches way above its weight in terms of mystery, history, and the occasional cow traffic jam. Getting There: The Scenic Roller Coaster Getting to Phonsavan is half the fun, if your idea of fun is a 9-hour minivan ride through winding mountain roads that make your stomach consider early retirement. Buses from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, or even Vietnam will get you there eventually. Just pack Dramamine, a neck pillow, and maybe a crucifix if you're religious. If you're feeling fancy, you can also take a domestic flight from Vientiane to Xieng Khouang Airport. It’s quick, bumpy, and you’ll swear the pilot trained on YouTube. But hey, adventure! Plain of Jars: Ancient Mystery or Lao Tupperware? The Plain of Jars is the m...

Muang Ngoi: Where the Wi-Fi is Bad but Your Soul Reconnects If you’ve ever dreamed of running away to a remote village with no cars, limited electricity, and the kind of mountain views that make you want to delete Instagram and start journaling with a stick in the dirt, then Muang Ngoi is calling. It’s Laos’ equivalent of a “Do Not Disturb” sign, and honestly, it’s perfect. Getting There: The Boat Life Chose You First, get to Nong Khiaw by van, bus, or teleportation if you’ve figured that out. Then hop on a longtail boat for a scenic 1-hour ride upriver. The boat has: Wooden benches A roof (sometimes) Chickens (frequently) Life jackets (theoretically) There are no roads to Muang Ngoi. If that stresses you out, just wait until you see the view. It’ll sedate your city brain instantly. What to Do: Lower Your Expectations (In a Good Way) This is not a town for itinerary addicts. It’s a place for doing sweet, glorious nothing with a few small bursts of effort in between hammock sessions...

How to Pay in Laos Without Losing Your Mind (or All Your Money) So, you’ve landed in Laos, land of laid-back vibes, beautiful temples, and cash-centric chaos. You're here to chill, eat cheap noodles, and maybe kayak your way into a sunset. But first: how do you pay for things without accidentally offering your passport for a papaya salad? Here’s your funny-but-actually-helpful guide to paying like a local (or at least like a smart tourist) in Laos. Cash: Your New Best Friend Laos is a cash-first country. Seriously, if your wallet isn’t stuffed with Lao Kip, you’re going to struggle. The local currency is the Lao Kip (LAK). Prices look enormous (a coffee might cost 25,000 kip - just over $1), but don’t panic. You’re just temporarily rich. Most things such as food, tuk-tuks, guesthouses are cash only. You can check the latest exchange rates here . Withdrawing Money from ATMs ATMs are easy to find in cities and tourist towns. But here's the catch: each withdrawal usually costs...

Nong Khiaw: Come for the Views, Stay Because You Missed the Last Boat Nestled in northern Laos like a postcard that forgot to brag about itself, Nong Khiaw is a magical little riverside village where time slows down, Wi-Fi takes naps, and every view looks like it should be accompanied by pan flute music. This is the kind of place that makes you consider quitting your job to become a full-time hammock philosopher. —— —— —— —— Getting There: Embrace the Bumps To get to Nong Khiaw, you'll need a bit of determination and at least one strong butt cheek. Most travelers come from: Luang Prabang – By minivan (3-4 hours of scenic zigzags and potholes that keep your soul alert). Muang Ngoi – By boat, if the Nam Ou River is high enough and the boat hasn’t been commandeered by a chicken. Sadly, the once-famous slow boats from Luang Prabang are no longer a regular thing (thank you, hydroelectric dams), so ground travel is your best bet unless you own a kayak and a dream. —— —— —— —— What to D...

Two Week Itinerary: Relaxing, Exciting, Flexible  Day 1: Welcome to Vientiane – The World's Chillest Capital Arrive in Vientiane, where even the traffic has a siesta. Take a lazy walk along the Mekong River promenade, trying to figure out if that was a jogger or just a fast monk. Check out a few temples in the Old Quarter. Dinner: street food by the river. Try something that crunches unexpectedly and pretend you meant to order it. Day 2: Vientiane - Temples, Beer, and the Buddha Park Visit Pha That Luang , a giant golden stupa that looks like enlightenment and sunstroke rolled into one. Climb Patuxai , Laos’ version of the Arc de Triomphe, built with cement donated by the U.S. for an airport. Priorities, baby. Hop over to Wat Si Saket , where hundreds of Buddha statues sit calmly, judging your jet lag. Optional: Afternoon trip to Buddha Park , where surreal statues lie sprawled like a stone rave happened and no one cleaned up. Evening massage: Choose between “relaxing” or “I want ...

Huay Xai: Laos' Gateway to Gibbon Encounters and Slow Boat Adventures Welcome to Huay Xai (sometimes spelled Houayxay or Huoeisay because standardized spelling is overrated), the Lao border town that most travelers speed through faster than you can say "visa extension." But those in the know realize this unassuming frontier outpost deserves more than just a passport stamp. Perched on the Mekong across from Thailand, Huay Xai is indeed home to the famous Gibbon Experience and serves as the launchpad for legendary slow boat journeys to Luang Prabang. Where in the World? Huay Xai sits in Bokeo Province in northwestern Laos, directly across the Mekong River from Chiang Khong, Thailand. It's basically the town equivalent of the kid who lives on the edge of the neighborhood map. It's technically part of Laos but constantly looking across the river at its more developed Thai neighbor. The surrounding landscape features mountains draped in jungle so dense it would make ...

Riding the Laos-China Railway: A High-Speed Adventure with a Medium-Speed Twist The Laos-China Railway (LCR) is a marvel of modern engineering that whisks you from Vientiane to Luang Prabang in just over two hours. Gone are the days of 12-hour bus rides with questionable rest stops and impromptu karaoke sessions . Welcome to the future of Lao travel, where the trains are fast, the seats are comfy, and the security is, well, let's just say thorough. 🛤️ Train Station Stops: From Vientiane to Boten The Laos-China Railway stretches approximately 414 km from Vientiane to Boten, near the Chinese border. Along this route, there are 10 passenger stations:  1. Vientiane – The capital city and southern terminus of the railway. 2. Phonhong – A town in Vientiane Province. 3. Vang Vieng – Known for its stunning karst landscapes and adventure activities. 4. Muang Kasi – A small town in Vientiane Province. 5. Luang Prabang – A UNESCO World Heritage city famed for its temples and colonial a...

Luang Namtha: Northern Laos' Wild Adventure Playground While everyone's cousin is posting selfies from Luang Prabang, you could be having a wilderness adventure in Luang Namtha that makes their temple tours look like a trip to the mall. Tucked away in Laos' northwestern corner where it plays border hopscotch with China and Myanmar, Luang Namtha is what happens when nature goes all out but forgets to invite mass tourism to the party. Where in the World? Luang Namtha province sits in the uppermost corner of Laos like a hat perched awkwardly on the country's head. The provincial capital (also called Luang Namtha because naming things was apparently not a priority) serves as the gateway to some of Southeast Asia's most pristine wilderness. The landscape looks like what would happen if you gave Mother Nature an energy drink: mountains dramatically erupting from valley floors, rivers slicing through dense jungles, and rice paddies that seem to have been installed by who...

Luang Prabang: A Heavenly Hideaway Ever heard of Luang Prabang? Nestled in northern Laos where the mighty Mekong and Nam Khan rivers high-five each other, Luang Prabang is what happens when French colonial architecture has a few too many Beerlao with Buddhist temples and decides to create a love child. UNESCO thought this architectural hookup was so impressive they slapped World Heritage status on it faster than you can say "I'll have another sticky rice, please." Where in the World? Luang Prabang sits in northern Laos, approximately "somewhere in Southeast Asia" if your geography is as vague as mine. It's wedged between Thailand, Vietnam, China, and several other countries that would be offended if I didn't mention them (hello, Myanmar and Cambodia!). The city is surrounded by lush mountains that look like they were painted by an enthusiastic kindergartener who only had green crayons. These mountains aren't just pretty faces. They're hiding wa...

The Ultimate Guide to Vang Vieng: Laos' Adventure Paradise Ah, Vang Vieng, the famous as well as infamous stop on the banana pancake trail. A well-known party town in central Laos, surrounded by gorgeous landscapes of karst mountains and rice fields. Explore by daytime, go wild at nighttime. This booming rural town is the perfect getaway for tourists of every kind: the budget-conscious backpacker who balances his budget between food and stimulants , the eco-warrior who loves hiking in the amazing countryside surrounding the town, the local traveler who wants to escape the bustle of Vientiane and even the elderly couple who zoom there using the top notch Lao-China railway and lounge in their boutique hotel near the Nam Song River. Where is Vang Vieng? Tucked away in the misty mountains of northern Laos lies Vang Vieng, a small riverside town that has transformed from a once-notorious party destination to an eco-tourism haven. Located about 2 hours north of Vientiane thanks to the ...

The Penultimate Guide to Vientiane, Laos' Charmingly Sleepy Capital Where in the World is Vientiane? Nestled on a languid bend of the mighty Mekong River lies Vientiane, a capital city that takes immense pride in being the most relaxed seat of government on the planet. Bordering Thailand (wave across the river and someone might lazily wave back), Vientiane occupies that special geographical location best described as "Yes, this really is the capital city, I promise." While Bangkok races toward the future and Hanoi buzzes with energy, Vientiane sips its coffee, adjusts its hammock, and wonders what all the fuss is about. Located in central Laos, this city of about 700,000 people spreads out unhurriedly along the Mekong's left bank, as if it's still contemplating whether being a capital city is worth all the effort. How to Get There (Multiple Options, All Involving Patience) By Air : Wattay International Airport welcomes flights from major Southeast Asian cities, ...